Scene Report: The Netherlands' Secret City and its Boundary Breaking Music Festival

From century old self playing instruments to one mighty music venue with over five concert spaces, here are eight admirable reasons to make Utrecht your next city break

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Down By The River: Even in November, the sun shines in Utrecht

It’s a European rite of passage to take in Amsterdam’s brown bars and infamous red light district. The Beautiful South were fairly flippant about Rotterdam but crowds still flock for its maritime heritage and swift train ride to Keukenhof’s tulips fields. Even Delft gets a dose of tourism for its prestigious pottery. But what about a medieval city with a 14th-century bell tower and an annual music festival that has welcomed everyone from St Vincent to Silver Apples through its doors?

The first time I visited the Utrecht, I was covering Le Guess Who? festival for BUST magazine. The 2018 lineup boasted The Breeders, Kembra Pfahler (currently the poster girl for the latest Gentlewoman issue), and Neneh Cherry. Bowled over by its cobbled streets and cosy cafes alongside that mighty music offering, I swiftly returned the following year for The Line of Best Fit as Acting Features Editor. In the run-up, I snatched interviews with festival curator and Norwegian noisenik Jenny Hval and - a wild coup - The Raincoats, who both performed.

The Netherlands’ nijntje or Miffy doing the rounds in Keukenhof’s tulip gardens

After riding through a global pandemic, the Le Guess Who? decided to bring some lighthearted cheer to their loyal followers marking their 15th anniversary with a bespoke print magazine charting the story of how the Dutch festival became home to music fans across the globe. I was made up to be asked to lead the editorial, speaking to co-founders Bob Van Heur and Johan Gijsen about its evolution from a two-man team to an award-winning movement. And now I’m going to scatter the magic dust your way sharing the sights and sounds that make this Netherlands’ gem so special.

As I gear up to head back to the city for my fourth festival edition next month, let’s rack up the rare finds and returning favourites from the top of my must-see list…

PLACES TO SEE

Oude Hortus, Lange Nieuwstraat 106

The Victoria Longwood in the Oude Hortus, Utrecht (Photo credit: Juri Hiensch)

Okay, so controversially I’m actually starting with two new numbers. This historical botanical garden is also a spot that will be featured in the upcoming My City feature I’ve been beavering away on for The Simple Things in the New Year…